Tudong: a practice of renunciation

From june to august 2024 Ven. Vimala embarked on a Tudong with attendant T along the Oregon coast. The route was chosen because the nearly 500 mile trail provided sufficient opportunities for going on almsround as well as (walking) meditation and practice. Below are the updates Ven. Vimala periodically sent with some impressions of the journey.
https://www.samita.be/en/2024/01/21/ven-vimala-on-tudong-through-california/

Update from the OCT:

We’ve arrived in Lincoln City after a wonderful surprise meeting with Ayya Anandabodhi and Samaneri Junha yesterday, who brought a delicious and much appreciated packed lunch-dana with them.
It’s been an amazing journey sofar. We’ve had challenges with the wet, cold and foggy weather on overgrown steep paths over headlands as well as beautiful sunny days walking pristine beaches. Some of the trails were closed due to landslides and lack of maintenance so occasionally we had to walk on the shoulder of HWY 101, also to circumvent estuaries where we couldn’t wade through.
Camping out in the woods or dunes has at times been cold and wet and at times amazingly beautiful. Waking up with the sound of the waves on a beautiful beach and a Bald Eagle perching nearby is indescribable.

But most heartwarming have been the encounters we’ve had with so many trail angels on the way. The generosity from Thai restaurant owners to motel managers, farmers and supermarket personnel and a kind random stranger buying us breakfast has been overwhelming and touching. Right now I’m writing this in a beautiful motel room in Lincoln City, gifted by a very kind lady; a most welcome repose before we continue on our next stretch to Florence, a place to rest and gather our energies as well as do some much needed washing and drying (not to mention a very welcome shower).
I’ve attached some pictures herewith. We noticed we only make pictures on the beaches when the going is easy! I’ll try to also give some impressions on other parts of the journey too in the next update!

Halfway on the Oregon Coast Trail:

Exactly on the 4th July we arrived in Florence, 200 miles from our starting point. We are staying here for a few days with friends of Ayya Anandabodhi, who so kindly opened their home to us; a welcome break to relax, allow our blisters to heal and do some laundry.
The last 100 miles have been much easier walking, partly due to the change in weather and partly due to less climbing of overgrown steep headlands. There was a lot of mist on the beaches and the world seemed to have completely disappeared when walking many miles with bare feet on the pristine sand with only the sound of the waves to our right; at times a dark figure emerging from the gloom. It was a magical experience in which time seemed to stand still.

The kindness and help we received from so many people has again been overwhelming! We were even offered a whale-watching excursion in a RIB off the coast of Depoe Bay!! 🙏🐳
Every day we meet so many kind people who give us food or a hot tea, a shower or place to camp in their garden. Even a homeless man offered us Dana, which was very sweet and touching.
During this last section we have had ample opportunity to practice death contemplation. On the beach we found a dead seal with vultures pecking at the flesh. When we approached the vultures slowly retracted away from the carcass as if to make way for us as superior predators. The cute seals we had seen on the beaches the day before and the dead seal here provided a good reminder of the transient nature of all living beings.
There were a number of times when we had to walk on the shoulder of HWY 101. Although there was a bicycle lane on most parts of the highway, at other parts the shoulder almost completely disappeared with a steep drop next to the road while large RVs thundered past. Certainly a good opportunity to contemplate our own mortality!!

The Amanda Trail south of Yachats touched us deeply. Walking the same trail as that of a blind Indian woman called Amanda who was forced to walk to a reservation and most likely died on the trail due to her injuries provided an example of the brutal deportations that took place in the 19th century. The shrine in the middle of the forest was a serene and suitable tribute to all the Native Americans who suffered since their lands were taken away from them. A place to contemplate the impermanence of Samsara and to be still.

On Sunday we will start walking towards Port Orford, the next 100 miles!

 

70 more miles to go:

We’ve made it to Port Orford and are staying at a beautiful property near the Elk River, a beautiful clear mountain stream with deep pools for swimming and resting; the last three days have been particularly strenuous due to the difficult terrain but ever so beautiful.

Now we’ve come this far it feels time to reflect and contemplate. A Tudong is a Buddhist practice for letting go of control over our lives, never knowing what is around the corner. It’s a practice of renunciation, if living simply. It emphasizes the changing nature of all things: Anicca. This is not only true for the ever changing landscape we’re moving through and for the weather; at times beautiful and sunny, then windy and cold or misty and rainy. It is also true for our basic necessities of water and food, being dependent on the kindness of the people we meet and on water sources like rivers (the rivers near the beaches are estuaries and therefore salty). Sometimes people ask us what we want or what we need but my answer is always the same “give whatever you feel moved to give.” This is important because the merit of giving comes from that place: giving what your heart tells you to give.

The Tudong practice consists of adapting oneself to changing circumstances with grace and contentment and to constantly observe the mental phenomena that arise and pass away. Negativities can arise in the mind because the mind likes to control our circumstances. But this we have to recognize, accept and let go. It’s very humbling to make oneself vulnerable and move with the flow of Dhamma. It’s a practice of being in the present moment, being with whatever presents itself, both internally and externally. Sometimes there are long stretches of walking meditation, while other times require more mindfulness practice when crossing a river or walking a small trail over a headland or along a steep cliff. Sometimes there are pains or the going is tough, other times it’s easy and joyful. Sometimes we camp at a beautiful river, sometimes in an abandoned gravel yard on the edge of town.

Since Florence we’ve moved through more remote areas of the trail, often with days without any villages or opportunities for almsround but the kind trail angels we’ve met on the way have supplied us with sufficient snacks to take with us for on the way. It’s been very beautiful to be in nature with only the animals and birds and no people in sight. Once during the early morning hours a Bald Eagle perched on a branch above me while four otters came past in the river, poking their heads out of the water to see this strange creature meditating on the bank.
Every day is a new adventure, a new learning opportunity….

We’ve made it!

We’ve made it to the end of the Oregon Coast Trail! As we have some more time, we decided to continue for another 10 days on the California Coast Trail before heading back to Arizona.

The last leg since Port Orford has been full of beautiful scenery and lovely people. We left the strong, cold, northerly winds behind us and encountered a new challenge: poison oak. The coastline has become more rugged so we’re spending much more time on the trails and we have to be extra mindful not to brush against poison oak, which grows abundantly in the forests.

We met some wonderful people on the trail again. We did a house blessing at a beautiful converted old garage, filled with the loving, joyful energy of people who follow their heart. We met a prospector at a small secluded beach where we stayed for a few days, who showed us how to find gold on the beach and made us some delicious breakfasts in his old converted school bus.

The one thing I most remember from this tudong is the kind people we met. People with their own lives, and their stories. We’re just coming by and touch their lives briefly and we hope we could bring a ray of sunshine into their lives too. We will certainly remember these people with love and feel touched by their presence and kindness.
Of course the two of us also needed to work on our own defilements. Living in close proximity for long periods of time brings challenges with it. Like the beautiful stones we find on the beach, tumbled and smoothened by rubbing up against each other, wearing away at their rouch edges; this is what makes them beautiful. So too, this tudong is helping us to wear away our defilements so we can come out more smoothly, more radiant.
And hopefully our example can inspire others on the path of Dhamma!

Last update:

A short update from California before we head back to Arizona where I’ll spend 10 days meditating in the caves before heading back to Europe and stay with my father on the 5th death anniversary of my mother.

After we finished the Oregon Coast Trail we decided to head for the California Redwood Forests. So after a night in a driftwood hut on the beach in California and a few nights in the Talowa Dunes we walked into the forests. These amazing Redwood trees are the tallest trees in the world and can be 2000 years old. It’s very humbling to walk, meditate and camp under these giants.

We feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to walk this amazing Tudong with so much gratitude to all the trail angels we met on the way. ❤️

 

With much metta and gratitude
Ven. Vimala